Saturday, March 03, 2007

Steve's First Bloggerisation

Why hello there!
I believe this is my first blog that i will have posted, and if you don't know me then apologies for the bad sppeling and shocking usage of grammer...
...Wow! Is what first springs to mind... As you may have gathered, Kili is quite a large hill poking its head proudly above the African clouds...
After 4 gruelling days of ascent we were faced with 8 hours of the most mind-boggling pain/exhaustion/up-hill struggle to reach Stella Point. Those who were in a fit state to do so somehow continued for a further hour to Uhuru Peak (Africa's highest point). I, with headache (yes, i'm about to start whingeing), nausia, shortness of breath, a heart rate of about 180 bpm and flashing spots/lights in my eyes, was advised to go down. I was a bit gutted that i couldn't go the extra hour to Uhuru but still pretty darn chuffed that I was able to officially conquer Africa's highest mountain.
Anywho, i have 5 minutes of Ethiopian time left on this amazing computer in this amazing airport..in amazing health. Must dash. Will write again soon, i promise! ...I have some photos to put up...
Hugs and kisses,
Steve xx

First reflections....

Killing a very dull 5 hours in Addis Ababa airport, in transit from Kili back to London after our epic trek. Most of us are suffering from African tummy and mountain aches, with Imodium and Nurofen in high demand.

So how are we all feeling? Elated, knackered, tired, disappointed. And many more emotions, but all of us awestruck. As the plane rose from Kili airport in the early evening, above the clouds on the right hand side we had an incredible view of the snow capped volcanic peaks of Kilimanjaro. To see them soaring way above the clouds - 3 miles above sea level, for goodness sake - made us realise the scale of the challenge we had just completed.

The start of the trek already seemed a lifetime away. Our group of 16 climbers miraculously grew to an entourage of 60 at our starting point of Machame Gate. Hellen, our tour leader, Mexan the head guide and 4 other guides, and 38 - yes, that's 38 - porters to carry all our gear for the whole attempt. The porters carry everything - tents, food for everyone for 6 days, other equipment - on their heads all the way to the final camp at 4,500m. To see them sprint up the Barranco wall with tables or 15kg kitbags seemingly glued to thier heads will stay with me forever. To climb this wall took all my concentration but I know that others have photos that will convey the gradient of the wall and the incredible commitment of the porters.
Andrew's initial champagne moments:
  • the hailstorm on the way to the Lava Tower on day 3 just after Hellen had encouraged everyone to slap loads of sun cream on. Very intense and painful....Kili acupuncture according to Jon
  • the Barranco camp, surrounded by native Senecio plants looking like giant cactus plants, and with the most amazing sunset towards Kibo
  • the Barranco wall and the ensuing valley walk...an appetizer to the main course summit
  • summit night. Hell and heaven. The worst and best experiences of a lifetime all wrapped into one

Andrew's initial brown ale moments:

  • start of day 4 at the Barranco camp when Jim, suffering from severe AMS, had to leave the group and descend the mountain. Heartbreaking
  • reaching the summit without Gill and separated from the rest of the Kili 6. And then finding all 3 of my camera batteries had frozen
  • feeling so sick on day 2, whether from AMS or a bug I'll never know, that I had serious doubts about being able to continue

Loads more reflections from the Kili 6 to follow and hopefully some thoughts and photos from the rest of the trekking group to follow..

Friday, March 02, 2007

It Is A Very Big Mountain

We're down, we're alive and Kilimanjaro is conquered.
5 of the Kili 6 summited in the early morning of Thursday 1st March. Gill unfortunately didn't quite make it, heading back to camp after 3 gruelling hours of vertical climb from 4,500m and physically unable to face the remaining 4 hours still needed to reach Kili's summit at 5,895m. Her condition was probably largely as a result of sleep deprivation, Andy having exited their tent about 7 times a night for a pee on the previous 5 nights. Sorry, Mrs M...next year perhaps?
Summit night was extraordinary. Woken up at 11 pm, with little or no sleep, after a tough 8 hour hike that day, we headed out under a nearly full moon and a cloudless sky at just after midnight and with nothing more inside us than tea, biscuits and trepidation. The next 8 hours were THE toughest thing I have experienced, either physically or mentally. We all suffered serious problems at different stages but this is such an extreme challenge that you can't attack that altitude in so few days without expecting some symptoms.
To see the sun rise over Africa behind our heads as we trudged up the final sections was amazing. And as we hit Stella Point, at about 5,740 metres the first point on the crater rim summit, the morning was perfect. Physically and emotionally drained, Jon and I hauled ourselves to Uhuru Peak at 5,895 with Meringi our guide, boots and poles squeaking on the ice under fresh snowfalls, with the subtle colours of spectacular glaciers shining in the brightness of the sun.
Unfortunately my camera batteries had frozen at Uhuru, but my body and mind have recorded the experience in full technicolour detail. The descent was almost more brutal, 1,300m of dusty scree and craggy rocks in unsheltered blazing 30 degree heat. Quick rest and then a further descent of 3 hours to Mweka camp at 3,100 metres....all in one simply amazing day. Never again.
We're in Moshi now after a great lunch with our guides and a few Kilimanjaro beers. The first shower at the Mountain Inn earlier was HEAVEN.
Celebratory dinner tonight with a few more Kili beers and back to the real world tomorrow. It will never be the same again.
Andy & The Kili 6